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How To Build a Chess Board or Checkerboard (Part 1 of 3)

First Layer Glue-up

Prepare the bottoms of the slices by sanding them down nearly flat so they can be glued solidly to a backer board. Then, cut a piece of 1/4-inch plywood just larger than your board dimensions. (E.g., If you’re making 2-inch squares, cut the 1/4-inch plywood to about 16.5 inches.) Here I’m using a small crosscut sled to make these cuts, but you can cut it against the fence just as easily.

The first backer board

The first backer board

Orient the grain of the backer board to be perpendicular to the grain of the slices and glue the first slice down so that its edge is exactly adjacent to one edge of the 1/4–inch plywood sheet. I use my crosscut sled for this: First put down some wax paper to protect the sled, then clamp the backer board against one edge of the sled. Then apply the glue to the slice and clamp it, too, against the edge of the sled, and also firmly to the backer board. Thin slices tend to bow a bit because a thin board cannot resist the force of the grain as well as a thick one. So, to provide good clamping pressure, use a couple of long pieces of hardwood along the length of the slice on the both edges and in the middle where the two wood species are joined. (See photo below.) Then wait for the glue to dry. You’ll be clamping the rest of the slices against this first slice, so allow a good 24 hours for the glue to cure. Next, use a glue roller or brush to prepare the second piece and clamp it into place.

Applying glue to the second slice

Applying glue to the second slice

Spread the glue evenly on the back of the slice and along the edge that will be pressed up against the first slice. Flip the piece over and clamp it into place. Again, use cauls where you need to if the slice has bowed slightly and to provide good clamping pressure.

Clamping the slice solidly

Clamping the slice solidly

Allow the glue to set for a couple of hours, then proceed with slices three and four. When you’re finished, you’ll have a dark and light striped board.


This is the End of Part 1. You can:

  • Skip to Part 2 (5 pages), which covers cutting the squares through planning the inlay.
  • Skip to Part 3 (4 pages), which covers cutting the inlay through finishing.

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  1. fragmatic’s avatar

    Genius. Thank you!

    Reply

  2. Eruccerlews’s avatar

    Hi! I’ve been skimming this forum for a bit – Decided to contribute=)

    Reply

  3. Random-ish’s avatar

    I’ve been doing this for my year 10 major project, works like a charm. Very simple to follow, very effective and my teacher wants to add it in a woodshow. THANKYOU SO MUCH!!!

    Reply

    1. admin’s avatar

      That’s great — I’d love to see some pictures when you’re finished!

      Reply

  4. Stan’s avatar

    I’ve been building checkerboards for years, but I make them a full 3/4’s thick. I don’t use a backer. I just finish both sides. I add one step that gives strength and gives a nice look. I glue up the dark wood in a panel 16 inches wide and cross-cut my strips from this piece. That turns the light and dark squares grain the opposite of each other. I think it is worth the trouble.

    Reply

  5. admin’s avatar

    Tha sounds great, Stan. I’d love to see a photo if you have a chance!

    Reply