crafts

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Here are the results and a key for the detail test that I had printed by Shapeways in stainless steel. The detail is quite remarkable. If this interests you, check out the 3D Printed Metric Hole Test Pattern and Key.

First the scale, compared to a penny:

Detail Test Scale

Detail Test Scale

This is the key in case you want to try to print these yourself in different materials. Click for a larger view.

Detail Test Key

Detail Test Key

And finally the front and back. Click for larger views.

Detail Test Side 1

Detail Test Side 1

Detail Test Side 2

Detail Test Side 2

Here’s a spice rack I made to fit on the back of a cabinet door. It really cleans up the spice cabinet, and makes the individual jars a lot easier to find. I had to notch the shelves out a bit in order to make it fit, and it’s built to fit spice jars from Penzeys, which are a pretty standard size.

It’s a little less fancy that the Poplar and Walnut Spice Rack that I made as a gift a few years ago because it’s not intended to be displayed out in the open. It was made almost entirely from recycled maple wainscoting.

Maple spice rack

The maple spice rack mounted on the back of a cabinet door

The shelves are fixed. The fronts are high enough that they will stop the jars from tipping over if the door is slammed, but not so high that they block the name of the spice. The shelves are spaced far enough apart that the jars can be removed by tipping them forward.

Maple spice rack detail

A detail view of one of the shelves

To add the band, I used the $7.40 branding iron that I described in the A $6 Custom Branding Iron post.

The brand on the side of the spice rack

The brand on the side of the spice rack

In the A $6 Custom Branding Iron post, I showed off a branding iron I had “printed” in stainless steel by Shapeways.com for US$6, after using the free vector image editor Inkscape, and parametric modeling software Alibre Design, which also has a free version called Alibre Design Xpress.

This tutorial requires a working knowledge of Alibre Design (or other 3D parametric modeling software) and Inkscape (or other vector graphics editing software).

$6 branding iron

$6 branding iron

Here are the steps I took to make it happen: (I’ll add more detail over time.)

  • Design in Inkscape
    1. Convert all text objects to paths (Path > Object to path)
    2. Convert all stroked lines to paths (Path > Stroke to path)
    3. Ungroup all objects
    4. Union all objects (Path > Union)
    5. Select object
    6. Save As… Type Desktop Cutting Plotter (R13) (*.dfx) – Output will be in mm
  • Import into Alibre Design (File > Import, type DXF)
    1. Select mm for file units
    2. (It imports into a drawing)
    3. Select everything and Explode (Edit > Explode Symbol)
    4. Activate the sketch
    5. Analyze (Sketch > Analyze…)
    6. Heal all problems
    7. While activated, select the figures
  • Copy to a Alibre Design Part
    1. Open a new part
    2. Activate a design plane and Paste (the figure may appear far from center)
    3. Select the curves, shift-left-click to drag to better location
  • Model the branding iron
    1. Extrude sketch 1.25mm — this is the depth of the brand.
    2. Select *top* face and insert a plane. (right-click > Insert Plane…)
    3. Select the new plane, Project to Sketch (if necessary), to create a foundation for the brand.
    4. Extrude 2mm for foundation
    5. Insert another plane on the back of the foundation
    6. Extrude a mounting hole, 4.9mm is 0.1375mm larger than 3/16″
    7. Cut a set screw hole in an accessible location if necessary. 3.048mm is 0.12″, the tap size for #6-40 set screw.
  • Export & Upload
    1. Export as *.STL file
    2. Upload to Shapeways.com
    3. Order in stainless steel
  • Finish
    1. Tap the mounting flange for a 10-32 screw
    2. Thread a 3/8″ steel rod with 10-32 die or use a 10-32 screw
    3. Build a handle
    4. Sand down the surface of the branding iron to make it nice and flat

Some woodworkers like to leave their mark on their work using a branding iron, but at roughly $190 per iron, it can really be quite an investment. I took a less expensive route, using some free software, and a genius 3D printing serviceĀ  called Shapeways.com.

I started by drawing up a couple of logo ideas in Inkscape, a free vector graphics application. I exported by design from Inkscape and imported it into Alibre Design, which is a fantastic parametric 3D modeling application that happens to be available for free in a feature-limited version. Once I was satisfied with the 3D model, I exported again, uploaded the file to Shapeways, and “printed” it in stainless steel. The total cost for the “AF” design was $6, and only $7.40 for the larger name logo.

I tapped the back of the iron and threaded a short section of 3/16″ steel rod, and inserted it into a little handle that I turned out of some scrap cherry. After a couple of test burns, I was pretty happy with the result. Next I’ll try sanding it down a bit to see if I can make it even cleaner.

Update: I’ve added a step-by-step tutorial on how I made these: Making the $6 Branding Iron, Step-by-Step. There’s also a video on how to use it here: Using the Custom Branding Irons.

I picked up several of these scoop kits at Rockler a couple weeks ago to use as Christmas gifts. I used bubinga and sugar maple, and finished it with tung oil. This handle feels the best so far — both forehand and backhand — so I think this one might stay with me! :)

scoop01

There is an excellent tutorial posted by bethany at the Vermillion Rules blog that describes precisely how to make a little girl’s tutu with only some elastic strap, a few yards of inexpensive and easy-to-find tulle, and no sewing. (I didn’t sew the elastic together as the author suggested; I just tied it into a knot instead.)

Check out the full tutorial here: An Extremely Detailed Tutu Tutorial.

The end result: A very happy little girl!

Tutu

Tutu

I came home today and my son had created a suit of armor and a sword out of cardboard and paper bags. But his sword was badly damaged — dented and bent — by the kid down the street who had a fancy plastic sword. Well, that cardboard sword just wasn’t going to cut it (pun intended ) so I grabbed some scrap hard maple and sharpened it up nicely. The rematch is tomorrow… MOOA-HAHAHA!

Next came the shield — with peep holes so he can keep an eye on the enemy, and emblazoned with the family coat of arms! I love that he’s able to see how quick and easy it can be to create cool wooden toys. (Click for a larger view.)

And after it’s painted, plus the other side so you can see the handle… (Click for larger views.)

I was working on another rocking horse in the shop today and my son kept picking up a horse leg and pretending it was a violin. I didn’t want the leg to get damaged, but I also wanted him to be able to “play” violin so I banged out this little toy.

He loves it — even took it to bed with him! So I thought I’d share it. (He gets the hair from me.) Click for a larger picture.

And no, I did not glue the bridge on. :)

Just call me Martha Stewart. :) I finally got around to making three simple fabric-covered window cornices for our reading room, using all scrap wood and about 1.5 yards of fabric that my wife picked out for about $12. 1/4″ plywood was sufficient. The hardest part was actually installing them. (What a pain the in the you-know-what!)

I was shocked to find that these can actually cost $200-300 if you have someone do them for you! I found shape ideas (and really high prices) here.

I got oriented by reading through this Lowes tutorial.

Custom Window Cornices

I used to get a lot of prescription meds for a family member and I often use the old bottles to store small parts. A couple years ago I started drilling holes in 1/4 ply and hanging them from hooks on my pegboard. Effective but ugly.

Well, tonight I went out into the shop to “cool down” after a heated conversation with a credit card company (another story altogether ), grabbed a couple pieces of old maple wainscoting and finally finished the job. (Well, not quite finished, but you know what I mean.)

The rack holds 60 bottles on four slide-out shelves. I use it for lots of random stuff like hooks, washers, plugs, modular jacks, picture hanging hooks, coins (spacers), etc. It’s handy because you can pretty much see into all of the bottles pretty easily.

Here’s a photo. Let me know your thoughts!

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